Discovery Kyrgyzstan
Discovery Kyrgyzstan travel guide #10/2008

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Lenin peak: "The best way to winter the summer!"

Peak of Lenin (Pamirs) is one of the most prominent, beautiful, and what is of no small importance technically not complicated the seven-thousanders of the planet. It long ago attracted me by its sky beauty and thrilling variety of its already known and unexplored yet paths. Greenery, stones, waterfalls, narrow and dangerous mountain paths, streams, snow, huge and terrible glacier; all that covered on the top by the hat of the transparent sky bareness, and all that together form those unusual and attractive world, which forever draws into itself mountain fans and ordinary amateurs from all over the world. The way to the cherished summit begins from the hospitable Kyrgyz city Osh, further along Transpamirs highway through the picturesque pass «Taldik», on which conveniently located yurta camp under the same name. To stay at such wonderful place is a luxury pleasure: you can find here bushes of the true eucalyptus, get lost among fir trees and drink water from the pure mountain spring, here you can also have a tasty snack. Further on your way you will see marvelous Alaysk valley (135 km in length, 22 in width, the height is 300 m over the sea level). Far off, in the haze it is seen a panorama of Zaalaysk range, which separates the valley from Pamirs. The next stay is the Basic Camp on the Lukovaya meadow (3800 m), located in the district Achik-Tash. That's all, this is the end of the trip not afoot. From here and higher you have to walk. Basic Camp on the Lukovaya meadow is a splendid place for the beginning of climbing to the Lenin s Peak. Not far from the tents below a rapid river makes a noise; to the right it is a majestic and snowy peak of "The XIX-th Party Convention", to the left not height , but picturesque peak of "Petrovskiy", and in front of it is extended Achik Tash valley. In the camp it is impossible to keep your place; you iust want to walk, rejoice your eyes with many-colored variety of the local flowers (among which it is an edelweiss entered in the Red Book). The reason why Basic Camp is called Basic is that here you can find all necessary for providing comfort stay to your. However, despite of a great number of the civilization signs (namely: lavatory, baths, serviced tables, computer and telephone, ... people, at last), feeling of the wildness and complete domination of nature doesn't disappear at all. Thus, having stuck your nose out of the yurta you right at that time get under heavy wind gust, which in a moment carry away only just now acquired warm. But, on the other hand, how pleasant it is to find you in comfort, satiety, warm, and merriment, and mountain conditions nobody abolished. Outside the camp you are at the full disposal of nature. And a peak, attracting and fascinating you with only its view promises many adventures on a way to it. After all just closeness of something unknown, interesting, and surely here and there dangerous creates that extraordinary feeling familiar to all climbers, which attracts them here from every corner of the world. In the basic camp it is comfortable and pleasant, but it's time to go there why you really have come for. For the beginning you have to climb up to the first camp (4400 m) it is about 3-4 hours of walk from the basic camp (8 km). Having overcome picturesque green pass of the Travelers (4200 m), you will see in front of you a magnificent vast moraine. Here on the pass opened to all winds you can be accidentally knocked down by these gusty winds. The pass is a peculiar border of the first stage of the way; this way is not very easy, especially if you go along it for the first time. After entering a glacier moraine you'll get to quite different world lacking in green and yellow paints. Here it is already the other beauty. Under the foot it is an ice, above the "head the sun, and in front of you Lenin's Peak. That is the very place to where it is required to go for impressions! 5 kilometers up on the glacier have been passed practically in a one breath. They're slowly from behind the next hill tents and 2 yurtas beginning to appear. It means that we are on the spot. We are met with the hot tea. This is the first camp under the Lenin's Peak (4400 m). Like in the Lukovaya meadow here have been placed genuine Kyrgyz yurtas, in which from time to time genuine Parties are being arranged, there are tents of different occupancy (for 2 and 3 men) and a toilet. The camp itself is situated on the moraine, from which it is opened a marvelous view of the Lenin's eadge. It is especially beautiful at the sunset, when a white moon has already appeared from the flank, and the sun is painting it in the orange color. Not less beautiful the first camp is at the dawn, when unnatural morning light gives to it some mystical look. It seems that here it is a summit! Near, in no distance... Actually to it mere are still many hours of tiresome, but fascinating way, for the sake of which you are here. Not everybody can understand by his mind why and for what purpose people distinctly go to risk their own life to this wonderful by its beauty, but to the same extent dangerous in its essence region. I open a secret: probably majority of climbers themselves can't explain to you clearly why they go to the mountains There is something bigger in it than an ordinary extreme; it is a bold wish to subdue unsubdued, andlearn their possibilities. Here life flies much more quickly, events are developing swiftly and there is not always tune to sit down and comprehend happenings. If in the ordinary life it takes months to know a man, than here it is enough to go with him from one camp to another to understand who is he. Here it is another world, another problems, another joys and  another world, another problems, another joys and sorrows. Here not only safety, but also friendship and love, power of will and character are being tested for the sorrows. Here not only safety, but also friendship and love, power of will and character are being tested for the strength. Early morning. Snow under your foot is shining and sparkling, cold wind is blowing out from your head the rest of dream, and in the front you are waited for by it by the SUMMIT. Whether does it let you come to it and look at the world from almost sky height of 7134 m, to which you have ascended by your own foot and now by right can be proud of it?... Who knows, who knows... And now it is time to move further; at first to the second camp, then to the third... And why to tell further though? It is required to go there by YOUR foot, to see everything by YOUR own eyes and perceive everything by YOUR own individual perception. Why read the most interesting? It is required to be there YOU SELF!

Discovery Kyrgyzstan #8

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