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Peak of Lenin (Pamirs) is one of the most
prominent, beautiful, and what is of no small importance technically
not complicated the seven-thousanders of the planet. It long ago
attracted me by its sky beauty and thrilling variety of its already
known and unexplored yet paths. Greenery, stones, waterfalls, narrow
and dangerous mountain paths, streams, snow, huge and terrible glacier;
all that covered on the top by the hat of the transparent sky bareness,
and all that together form those unusual and attractive world, which
forever draws into itself mountain fans and ordinary amateurs from all
over the world. The way to the cherished summit begins from the
hospitable Kyrgyz city Osh, further along Transpamirs highway through
the picturesque pass «Taldik», on which
conveniently located yurta camp under the same name. To stay at such
wonderful place is a luxury pleasure: you can find here bushes of the
true eucalyptus, get lost among fir trees and drink water from the pure
mountain spring, here you can also have a tasty snack. Further on your
way you will see marvelous Alaysk valley (135 km in length, 22 in
width, the height is 300 m over the sea level). Far off, in the haze it
is seen a panorama of Zaalaysk range, which separates the valley from
Pamirs. The next stay is the Basic Camp on the Lukovaya meadow (3800
m), located in the district Achik-Tash. That's all, this is the end of
the trip not afoot. From here and higher you have to walk. Basic Camp
on the Lukovaya meadow is a splendid place for the beginning of
climbing to the Lenin s Peak. Not far from the tents below a rapid
river makes a noise; to the right it is a majestic and snowy peak of
"The XIX-th Party Convention", to the left not height , but picturesque
peak of "Petrovskiy", and in front of it is extended Achik Tash valley.
In the camp it is impossible to keep your place; you iust want to walk,
rejoice your eyes with many-colored variety of the local flowers (among
which it is an edelweiss entered in the Red Book). The reason why Basic
Camp is called Basic is that here you can find all necessary for
providing comfort stay to your. However, despite of a great number of
the civilization signs (namely: lavatory, baths, serviced tables,
computer and telephone, ... people, at last), feeling of the wildness
and complete domination of nature doesn't disappear at all. Thus,
having stuck your nose out of the yurta you right at that time get
under heavy wind gust, which in a moment carry away only just now
acquired warm. But, on the other hand, how pleasant it is to find you
in comfort, satiety, warm, and merriment, and mountain conditions
nobody abolished. Outside the camp you are at the full disposal of
nature. And a peak, attracting and fascinating you with only its view
promises many adventures on a way to it. After all just closeness of
something unknown, interesting, and surely here and there dangerous
creates that extraordinary feeling familiar to all climbers, which
attracts them here from every corner of the world. In the basic camp it
is comfortable and pleasant, but it's time to go there why you really
have come for. For the beginning you have to climb up to the first camp
(4400 m) it is about 3-4 hours of walk from the basic camp (8 km).
Having overcome picturesque green pass of the Travelers (4200 m), you
will see in front of you a magnificent vast moraine. Here on the pass
opened to all winds you can be accidentally knocked down by these gusty
winds. The pass is a peculiar border of the first stage of the way;
this way is not very easy, especially if you go along it for the first
time. After entering a glacier moraine you'll get to quite different
world lacking in green and yellow paints. Here it is already the other
beauty. Under the foot it is an ice, above the "head the sun, and in
front of you Lenin's Peak. That is the very place to where it is
required to go for impressions! 5 kilometers up on the glacier have
been passed practically in a one breath. They're slowly from behind the
next hill tents and 2 yurtas beginning to appear. It means that we are
on the spot. We are met with the hot tea. This is the first camp under
the Lenin's Peak (4400 m). Like in the Lukovaya meadow here have been
placed genuine Kyrgyz yurtas, in which from time to time genuine
Parties are being arranged, there are tents of different occupancy (for
2 and 3 men) and a toilet. The camp itself is situated on the moraine,
from which it is opened a marvelous view of the Lenin's eadge. It is
especially beautiful at the sunset, when a white moon has already
appeared from the flank, and the sun is painting it in the orange
color. Not less beautiful the first camp is at the dawn, when unnatural
morning light gives to it some mystical look. It seems that here it is
a summit! Near, in no distance... Actually to it mere are still many
hours of tiresome, but fascinating way, for the sake of which you are
here. Not everybody can understand by his mind why and for what purpose
people distinctly go to risk their own life to this wonderful by its
beauty, but to the same extent dangerous in its essence region. I open
a secret: probably majority of climbers themselves can't explain to you
clearly why they go to the mountains There is something bigger in it
than an ordinary extreme; it is a bold wish to subdue unsubdued,
andlearn their possibilities. Here life flies much more quickly, events
are developing swiftly and there is not always tune to sit down and
comprehend happenings. If in the ordinary life it takes months to know
a man, than here it is enough to go with him from one camp to another
to understand who is he. Here it is another world, another problems,
another joys and another world, another problems, another
joys and sorrows. Here not only safety, but also friendship and love,
power of will and character are being tested for the sorrows. Here not
only safety, but also friendship and love, power of will and
character are being tested for the strength. Early morning. Snow under
your foot is shining and sparkling, cold wind is blowing out from your
head the rest of dream, and in the front you are waited for by it by
the SUMMIT. Whether does it let you come to it and look at the world
from almost sky height of 7134 m, to which you have ascended by your
own foot and now by right can be proud of it?... Who knows, who
knows... And now it is time to move further; at first to the second
camp, then to the third... And why to tell further though? It is
required to go there by YOUR foot, to see everything by YOUR own eyes
and perceive everything by YOUR own individual perception. Why read the
most interesting? It is required to be there YOU SELF!
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