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The
mountains of Kyrgyzstan lie across several of the ancient trading
routes that connected the mysterious Chinese Empire with the nation
states of Europe until about the thirteenth century. These
routes (and others further to the south) made up a network that was
later to become known as the Great Silk Road.
Despite the name by which this network of routes in known today, it
wasn’t a single road, but rather a number of different routes
which combined to create a network of routes which stretched across
Central Asia – travelling both east to west and north to
south. Although there were some notable exceptions, very few people
would have travelled the full extent of the Silk Road, as Marco Polo
described in his memoirs. Most travelled just one
stage. They knew the route, where to find water, the places
where to stay overnight, and so forth. The way was difficult
and full of dangers and their local knowledge was of vital importance.
Also, it wasn’t just silk, however, that was carried along
the route. Other high value, non-bulky, commodities such as
spices, jewellery, porcelain, furs, gems and other exotic commodities
were traded. As traders moved along the Silk Road, they not
only took with them their merchandise. They also carried
their culture, art, philosophy and beliefs. Buddhism, Zoroastrianism,
Confucianism, Christianity and Islam were all carried along the Silk
Road by itinerant travellers. The Silk Road could just as easily have
been called something like the “Road of
Ideas”. Many of the adherents of these different
religious faiths found a home and settled in what is now Kyrgyzstan.
Just as today, in the days of the Great Silk Road, the border was
carefully controlled. It was illegal to carry certain goods in, or out,
of the Chinese Empire, (for example: silkworms or swords) and the
export of Rhubarb was strictly controlled. Once the merchants
had cleared their passage with the authorities they departed on the way
to the next market where they could trade their goods. Goods
were traded and ideas exchanged in market towns with such exotic names
as Antioch, Babylon, Erzenum, Harnadan, Bukhara, Samarkand, Kashgar and
Xian – as well as in many which have long since disappeared,
(such as Nevkat, Suyab, Balasugin and Jul), and some whose names we no
longer know.
A caravan would average the equivalent of about 25 kilometres a day,
and if the going was good then they might go further, but where the
terrain was particularly difficult they might have to call a halt long
before this. In many places, where the conditions were
suitable, settlements would grow up at the places where the merchants
would stop for the night. So, for example, in the Chui valley
the three large, prosperous and powerful ancient cities of Balasugin,
Suyab and Nevkat grew up fairly close together at the foot of the
Kyrgyz Range. Now, unfortunately, all that remains of these
three once great cities, (Nevkat was once the size of the city of Rome
at the same period), are the Burana Tower, some archaeological
exactions and some earthworks where the cities once
stood.
It was a different story, however, in the remote mountain regions which
cover most of what is now Kyrgyzstan. These mountains proved
to be a formidable barrier which had to be negotiated in order to take
their goods to the next market, yet alone all the way to a strange
civilization the other side of the world from their point of
origin. Having crossed plains and desserts which stretch,
both east and west, for almost half of the continent there stood a
chain of some of the highest mountains in the world and in order to get
their goods to the even the next market, merchants would have to
negotiate a way across them.
There were several routes across the mountains, passing over passes
such as the Bedel, Torugart, Terek and Irkeshtam. (For the
modern traveller, only two of these of now open for cross-border
traffic: Torugart and Irkeshtam.) The expedition taken by the
Chinese traveller in search of Buddhist scriptures crossed the Bedel
Pass and stopped at Barskoon, on the shore of Lake Issyk Kul, where
they rested before he moved onto Tokmok and then Tashkent.
The crossing over the Bedel Pass was a traumatic experience ... heavy
snows had delayed his departure from Ak Suu in China, which
was a portent of worse to come, and in one 40 mile
stretch, (about 65km), he lost a third of his companions and
animals.
The paths were steep and difficult, and there were precious few
settlements to offer support of any kind, let alone of any considerable
size. It was difficult to reach and even more difficult to
sustain a large population. It may be several days before the
travellers might reach another settlement. Endeavouring to
set as good a pace as possible they would have set a camp for
themselves as best they could, in the most appropriate place they could
find. It was in this environment that a caravanserai, (a sort of
wayside Inn offering lodging, food and water and protection - from the
vagaries of the weather as much as from bandits), such as the one at
Tash Rabat, was a very important development.
Although time has passed and little may remain of the once great Silk
Road settlements, and in their place may stand modern cities like
Bishkek, Osh or Djalalabad, or small villages like Krasnaya Rechka, or
nothing at all apart from archaeological
excavations. However, much in Kyrgyzstan remains as
it was in the days of the Great Silk Road. Asphalt roads and
motor vehicles may have replaced narrow mountain tracks and beasts of
burden. However, the sparsely populated landscape is dotted
with isolated groups of yurts as shepherds tend their livestock in the
high mountain meadows. As then, today, it is possible to
experience all four seasons in the space of 24 hours.
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