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Peak Pobeda, is
one of three 7000-plus meter giants in Kyrgyzstan. It is
mountain full of surprises.
At
7439 metres, it is the highest mountain in the Tien Shan range which
straddles Kyrgyzstan, Kazakhstan and North-western China.
The mountain actually sits astride the border with China which passes
over the summit and along the ridges spreading to the East and
West. The South-eastern slopes of the mountain are actually in
China.
It is part of the Kokshaal Tau (“Forbidding
Mountains”) subrange of the Tien Shan and although it is
called a “Peak”, Pobeda has a
“massif” form with several summits along the length
of its ridge, (only one of which actually reaches over 7000
metres).
One of the problems associated with the years has been that of
identification. Sixteen kilometres to the North East,
separated from it by the South Enylchek glacier, is the mountain Khan
Tengri (7010 meters). Over the course of history these two
giants have often been confused with each other. This is
probably understandable given the remoteness and difficulty in reaching
the mountain – and the fact that whilst Khan Tengri is often
clearly visible, Pobeda is more often than obscured by the
clouds. Also, Khan Tengri looks more impressive with its
pyramidal shape. Another reason might be that Peak Pobeda was
further from the valleys which provide the main access routes to the
region, and so appeared smaller than its neighbour. The most
famous misidentification of the two mountains was the Russian explorer
Semyenov who wrote how he was struck by the distinctive pyramid
shape. However, he was not the only person to confuse the two
as there is some confusion in the historical texts and some people
think that both peaks may have been known by the name Khan Tengri by
different peoples at different times.
In 1938, the first attempt to ascend to the summit of the mountain was
made by a team of mountaineers – but it is not clear if they
actually succeeded. They named it “Peak 20 years of
Komsomol” – in honour of the Communist youth
movement.
It was only in 1943 that a somewhat surprised survey team ascertained
that Pobeda was the higher than Khan Tengri and it regained its
rightful place in the record books. (It didn’t help
that, apparently, the mountaineers were using an aircraft altimeter
which kept giving erroneous readings. It was only later
following subsequent expeditions that the readings were
verified.)
Anyway, the matter was settled in 1946 when the peak received the name
by which it is now known –in honour of the victory over
Fascism in the Second World War (“Peak Pobeda”
means “Victory Peak” in Russian).
To confuse the unwary still further, the mountain is now officially
known as “Jengish Chokusu” – which is a
translation of “Peak Pobeda” into Kyrgyz, although
it is still referred to everywhere by the Russian name. The
Chinese, however, still know the mountain by its Chinese name: Tomur
Feng.
Peak Pobeda is a notoriously difficult mountain to climb, and it has
claimed many lives of mountaineers that have attempted to do
so. In 1955 two teams attempted to conquer the peak, (one,
from Kazakhstan, from the Chon Tern Pass – and the other,
from Uzbekistan, along the Zvezdochka glacier). The Kazakh team met
difficulties as a result of worsening weather conditions –
and having reached 6000m they decided to descend. Only one of the 12
member team survived, and he was rescued by chance. From this moment
on, the mountain acquired a fearsome reputation.
The following year, 1956, saw what is considered by many to be the
first generally recognized successful ascent by the 30-day expedition
led by Vitaly Ablakov. Other milestones in the history of the
mountain include: 1970, when an expedition made the first successful
transit of the complete massif, from East to West and 1990 which saw
the first successful winter ascent – in February.
It
is not a mountain for the inexperienced climber. It is
covered by huge masses of ice and snow and weather conditions can also
make ascents difficult as persistent, strong, cold winds (called
“Thousand Devils”) can whip up snowstorms
– and have been known to rip tents to shreds.
Several expeditions, however, make attempts on the summit each year
– supported by local firms which maintain base camps on the
Enylchek glacier. There have even been several expeditions to
ski down the impressive slopes.
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