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Apart
from being an attractive city with interesting monuments, museums,
architecture and entertainment, the location of the city makes it
suitable as a base for a number of day or half-day excursions.
Lying on the plain of the Chui valley, at the foot of the Kyrgyz Range,
the mountains not only give it a dramatic backdrop – but are
also within very easy reach of the city centre and there are several
picturesque valleys which are well worth a visit.
About 40 kilometres away is the famous Ala Arch National park
– “famous”, as it is often listed in
guidebooks etc. as one the “must visit” locations
within the country – and many official visitors to the
country are entertained in the park at the “Presidential
Yurt”. The park was established in 1976 and it is a
favourite spot amongst the citizens of Bishkek for a day out or a
picnic. Within an hour of leaving the city centre, you will
be in an alpine gorge through which the fast flowing Ala-Archa River
runs, flanked by tall, snow-covered, peaks with steep-sided, forested,
mountain slopes. After arriving at the main gate of the park,
a gentle 20-minute walk will bring you to the base camp – at
an altitude of 2100 m. From here there is a choice of several
possible routes to explore: to the Ak-Sai glacier; further up the
valley to the ski-base; or to the Adygne gorge (past the cemetery and
memorial for fallen Mountaineers) … or you can choose to
stay at the camp, relax and simply enjoy the magnificent
views. There is a small museum about half way between the
main gate to the park and the base camp – with displays of
some of the fauna and flora to be found in the locality.
However, Ala Archa is only one of several picturesque valleys within
easy reach of the city.
The
neighbouring Alamedin valley also offers a scenic setting for a
day’s walking. In the foothills between the Ala
Archa and Alamedin valleys there are a number of ski resorts which are
popular during the winter, and the romantically named Dove
Falls. The poignant Ala Beyit memorial commemorates the 137
members of the Kyrgyz Central Committee that fell victims of the
Stalinist purges of 1937.
To the west of the city is the Belagorka valley (sometimes known as
Tash Bulak or Sokoluk valley) with another dramatic waterfall set less
than an hour’s walk from the road with views of the Marble
Peak.
In the other direction, to the east of the city, are the valleys of
Issyk Ata (“Warm Father”), Kegety and
Shamsy. The hot waters of the Issyk Ata springs have long
been known for their curative value and a sanatorium was built here
based on them. In the grounds of the sanatoria is an ancient
carving of the Buddha – evidence of the variety and richness
of the historical heritage of Kyrgyzstan. Once again, above
the Sanatoria there are ample opportunities for walking in the open
landscape. Kegety is a rarely visited, narrow, gorge with a
spectacular waterfall. Shamsy is a wider valley through which
one of the routes of the Great Silk Road passed, crossing the pass over
the mountains at the head of the valley.
Sixty kilometres to the east of the city is the city of Tokmok
– once the administrative centre of the region in the Russian
empire - lies in the Chui plain below the Kegety and Shamsy valleys.
Just to the south of the city is the one of the few ruins of
the Silk Road which still stands today: The Burana Tower. The
tower is all that remains of the once great city of Balasugin and was
originally, probably, a Minaret … although there are several
legends which offer alternative suggestions. There is a small
museum and a collection of Balbals, (stone statues that were
probably grave markers) that were once found scattered throughout this
part of Central Asia.
Balasugin was only one of several cities in the region at the time of
the Great Silk Road, when a day’s journey was limited to
something like 25 kilometres. Whereas in the mountains,
travellers could spend several days without seeing anyone, in the wide
open spaces of the Chui valley, they would travel from town to
town. Between Balasugin and Bishkek (which at that time was
known as the city of Jul) were two of particular importance –
and which are still being excavated by archaeologists: Suyab and
Nevkat. Suyab lies in the fields near the settlement of Ak
Beshim, just outside Tokmok. Nevkat lies to the north of the
village of Krasnaya Rechka (“Red River”) between
the main road from Bishkek to Issyk Kul and the
“new” bypass, built in the
1960’s. Nevkat was a major settlement on the Great
Silk Road, at the height of its power it was about the same size as
city of Rome at the time. Although there are no magnificent
ruins to wander amongst, some idea of the size of the settlement can be
gained from the man-made mound on which the upper part of the city, and
the citadel, was built.
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